Ancohuma

Ancohuma, Municipio Sorata, Provincia Larecaja, La Paz, Bolivia

High Mountain Expedition

Property ID:

None

Description

The Ancohuma (in Aymara: janq’u uma, white water)

One of the most remote mountains in the Cordillera Real, Ancohuma forms a single massif with the Nevada Illampu. Located to the west of Bolivia formed by small crests which makes it imposing and impressive.

The first ascent to the Ancohuma was achieved by two German climbers Rudolf Dienst and Adolf Schulze in 1919. For many years, the cartographers calculated the Ancohuma with more than 7,000 m, which would make it higher than the Aconcagua. Despite its altitude, there is no doubt that the Ancohuma massif is of impressive beauty, surrounded by incredible peaks of 6,000 m.

Why climb the Ancohuma?

Climbing this mountain is a “real challenge”. An expedition of five days with long days of walks, peaks, enormous glaciers and lagoons. Sleep one night on a glacier at 5,720 m / 18,766 ft. Its location is above the cloud of the valley of Sorata, offering views of the Sun Island, Lake Titicaca, etc. And the sunsets from here are a real paradise.

Technicality:

FR: AD / USA: AI 2

What makes the Ancohuma a little difficult expedition are the days of approach that are long walks between 5 hours approximately and to endure to sleep in a glacier one night. One must be in good physical condition and must be a strong hiker.

Itinerary

Schedule

DAY 1: Departure at 08.00am in the morning, we drove 4 hours to a small village located above Sorata, Kholani (3,223 m / 10,574 ft). Where we will have the lunch and we will start a bed of 3 hours approximately by a track trillado until Laguna Chillata (4.219m / 13.841 ft). Having a slope of (828 m / 2,716 ft).

DAY 2: This day we will have a difference of 673m / 2,208 ft. We walk 5 hours through hills and glaciers polished granite slabs to Glacier Lagoon (5,047 m / 16,558 ft), located between 3 convergent glaciers of Ancohuma, Illampu, and Schulze, 3 huge peaks above 6000 m. until arriving at Lagoon glacier.

DAY 3: We walk 2 hours through large rocks one step above the lagoon. We cross a short carriage and slope of loose rock to where be the Glacier of Ancohuma (5,560 m / 18,241 ft). Using ice climbing equipment, we walked along the glacier through penitents about 3.1 / 2 more hours to get to our camp from high (5,720m / 18,766 ft).

DAY 4: We started climbing at 1 am and skirted the open cracks southwest of the Cordillera 55° scale to the summit (6,427 m / 21,085 ft) in approximately 7 hours. We descend again to Laguna Glaciar to spend the 4th night there.

DAY 5: We descend again to Kholani and return to La Paz by private transport.